Preparing Materials

Mo 'Poxy's Chesapeake 17 Kayak Construction

Chesapeake 17

This blog is a photo essay of building a wooden kayak. It is a stitch and glue boat made from mahogany marine plywood known as okoume.

I build my boats from scratch, not kits, using published plans and raw materials. This kayak model is the Chesapeake 17, designed by Chesapeake Light Craft. 

Preparing Materials

First, I rough-cut the side and bottom panel pieces out of 4mm okoume plywood. Then, I cut the scarphs and the glue scarph joints to create a rough-cut version of the 17-foot long side and bottom panels.

I obtain my mahogany marine plywood from Edensaw Woods. Okoume is a surprisingly soft wood and 4mm is very thin. I often cut this plywood with a utility knife and a metal straight edge.

However, for long cuts along 8-foot sheets, I use a circular saw with a high quality carbide tipped fine-cut blade. Whenever possible, I stack 2 or more pieces of plywood and make a single cut, especially when the cut pieces are identical shapes. If you are only building one kayak, you could succeed with just a utility knife and without a circular saw.

Once the pieces are rough cut, I use a John Henry Scarphing Jig, mounted on a Makita power planer. The scarphing jig is very economically priced but the power planer is very expensive. This system makes easy cutting of perfect scarphs. However, it is probably not economical unless you will make many scarph cuts in your life, or if you need the power planer for many other uses. Due to the thin and soft plywood, scarphing can also be accomplished with a sander or a hand plane.

John Henry scarphing jig on Makita power planer

I use System 3 epoxy for gluing. Since the scarph surface is large end-grain surface in soft porous wood, I pre-wet the scarf surface with unthickened epoxy, to saturate the end-grain. Then I use thickened epoxy for the glue in the joint. For gluing or laminating, I thicken my epoxy with silica powder. When I need thicker epoxy for fairing or fillets, I thicken with both silica powder and wood flour. Silica powder and wood flour are available from System 3. Silica powder is somewhat expensive and wood flour is cheap. You can thicken with wood flour alone. Many beautiful boats have been built with just wood flour as a thickener for epoxy.

Okoume panels scarphed together

Wood flour and silica powder

WHENEVER I USE THE TERM "EPOXY" I AM REFERRING TO EPOXY RESIN MIXED WITH THE PROPER AMOUNT OF HARDENER.

I final-cut the two side and the two bottom panel pieces, to the precise dimensions specified in the plans.

The plans provide very precise dimensions for cutting the side and bottom panels. I layout the dimensions according to the plans. This results in dots every foot along the panels. Then I connect the dots with a thin 8-foot piece of clear wood. Such a piece of long thin wood is often called a "batten". I use nails, weights and clamps to fit the supple batten to the dots, then mark with a pencil.

The curves of these panels are gentle enough to cut with a circular saw. I cut them proud ("proud" means just beyond the final limits) then I sand the cuts to the exact pencil lines.

Rather than measure, layout, mark, cut and sand every panel of every boat that I build, I created patterns (the red painted pieces) out of construction grade 1/2-inch plywood. Then I use a router with a pattern cutting bit to cut the actual panels. That way, additional panels for future boats can be pattern-cut without repeating the measurement and layout.

Cut panels and templates

I ripped 1x stock for the sheer clamps. Sheer clamps are wood strips that lie under the deck at the edge. They connect the deck to the side panels. These are just 3/4 or 5/8 by 1-inch to 1½-inch strips. I've made sheer clamps from continuous 18-foot strips. In this photo, I made them by scarf-joining several shorter pieces into 18-foot strips

Ripping sheer clamps

Cutting the coaming layers: the coaming is the lip around the cockpit. It is built up bay laminating several layers in-place for a strong cold-molded piece. These layers are cut from the large piece of 4mm okoume plywood that is left after rough-cutting the side and bottom panels. This is another step where I created and used patterns rather than measure and layout every single piece

Cut coaming layers

Cutting the hatch covers: These are cut from the small 4mm okoume plywood remains left after cutting the coaming layers. By modifying the rough cut dimensions to use less plywood, I have wood left over to make larger hatch covers than those specified in the plans. The resulting larger hatch openings are greatly appreciated when loading and unloading gear.

Once again, I use patterns to cut these. However, instead of a flat pattern-cutting bit, I use a radius bit in my router. That way, these hatch covers have a perfect rounded edge for aesthetics

Hatch covers cut from patterms

Ripping stock for deck beam layers: these strips are cut from the small 4mm okoume plywood remains that are left after final-cutting the side and bottom panels. Nuthin' fancy here.

Deck beam layers

Ripping stock for rub rails: Rub rails are strips along the top of the side panels and edge of the deck that protect this corner from damage. I rip 3/4 clear oak into 3/4 x ¼ pieces. Then I round the outer two corners. I paint them then store them outside for weeks so that they gain moisture and grow longer, before they are installed. Otherwise, after installation they will gain moisture and grow longer, becoming an unsightly mess.

Oak rubrails

Hull Assembly

Mo 'Poxy's Chesapeake 17 Kayak Construction

Hull Assembly

Gluing the sheer clamps to the side panels

Be sure to decide which face of the side panels will be inside, and which will be outside, prior to gluing the sheer clamp to the inside. Also remember that the 2 side panels with sheer clamps installed are not the same, they are actually mirror images of each other.

Multiple layers can be glued, using only one set of clamps, by stacking the pieces for clamping. Always separate the layers with wax paper or plastic sheeting, otherwise all the layers will be glued together into one useless wasteful mess. In a single session, I once glued 4 sheer clamps onto 4 side panels for making 2 boats.

The sheer clamp pieces are glued "proud" onto the side panels (that is - overhanging the top off the side panels further than necessary). In a later step during hull assembly, the sheer clamps are shaved to their final dimension.

Gluing sheer clamps to side panels

Fiberglassing and epoxying the interior cockpit area of the bottom panels.

The plans do not specify this step. I added this to provide greater strength to the hull bottom in this area where sandy feet cause abrasion and stepping in and out concentrates loads on the hull panels.

I use System 3 epoxy for all my boat epoxy coating. The fiberglass provided by System 3 is transparent when saturated with epoxy. This exposes the beauty of the wood. Not all fiberglass is transparent when saturated.

Before epoxy, I layout and cut the fiberglass over-sized and thumb-tack it in place. I have learned to apply minimum amount of un-thickened epoxy using a foam roller then flatten and spread with a window squeegee. This uses minimal epoxy. hen I use too much epoxy, the fiberglass floats in the epoxy and results in lumpy waves in the fiberglass. Using minimal epoxy eliminates floating and waves. After a bit of curing, subsequent coats of epoxy are applied to fill the weave of the fiberglass and leave a smooth surface.

Some epoxy manufacturers recommend pre-coating the wood prior with epoxy, allowing it to cure, then sanding prior to fiberglass. This is to seal the wood. The theory is that without pre-coating, the wood will soak the epoxy out of the fiberglass and "starve" the fiberglass of epoxy. I've pre-coated then sanded many times. Then I learned to pre-coat and apply epoxy as soon as the pre-coat is tack-free, to avoid sanding. Then I learned not to pre-coat at all. I no longer bother to pre-coat and have never experienced starved fiberglass. The bond between the wood and epoxy-saturated fiberglass is far better without pre-coating.

NOTE: At the time that I built this kayak, only "blushing" epoxies were available. Sanding between coats of epoxy was required to remove the blush and ensure a good bond between coats. Nowadays, non-blushing epoxies are available, eliminating the need for sanding between coats.

'glassing the interior bottom panels in the cockpit area

Drilling the stitch holes in the hull panels and stitching the keel, stern and stem

Although drilling does not take long, stacking the panels for drilling 2 at a time can save a little time and aligns the stitch holes.

Stitching the keel at this point, while the bottom panels are "sandwiched" together, aligns the two bottom panels perfectly. Be sure to decide which face is inside and which is outside before stitching the "sandwich".

I used 18 gauge copper wire for stitching. I've tried thinner wire (20ga) but it broke too often.

Stitching the keel

Stitching the stem

Stitching the stern

Stitching the bottom panels to the side panels

Spread the bottom panels and lay them on the side panels for stitching.

The bow and stern of the bottom panels may not exactly mate with the bow and stern of the side panels. When they do not mate perfectly, I lay the bottom so that the bow and stern are equally distant from the bow and stern of the sides.

Bottom panels layed on side panels

Loosely stitch the bottoms to the sides.

I start amidship and stitch evenly on each side (4 to 6 stitches on one side then 4 to 6 on the other, so on and so forth) working a little towards the bow, then a little towards the stern, until complete.

Tie-wire twist pliers are pliers that can be clamped to the wire loop pair, then a knob on the pliers is pulled to twist the pliers, thus twisting the wires together, rapidly.

Stitching side panels to bottom panels

Tighten all of the completed hull stitches.

I "snug" all of the wires, but, before final tightening, I sight down the keel line and I can see humps (where the keel line is un-naturally high) and dips (where the keel is un-naturally low). To remove dips, I insert popsicle sticks in the keel, between the two bottom panels. This forces the keel joint to open and causes the keel to move up a bit, removing the dip. The popsicle sticks must be flush with the inside so they do not get in the way of future epoxy fillets. To remove humps, I will sand this keel at a later step.

Tie-wire twist pliers are a great help and are low-cost. However, for final tightening, they tend to break the wires rather than "cinch them down". So, I use standard pliers for final tightening twist.

Completed hull stitching

Creating the hull shape

Turn the boat over, install a temporary spreader to establish the plan-specified beam width and "wind" the boat.

The plans describe where to locate the spreader and the proper boat beam at that location.

"Winding" is simple. Just twist the boat to a symmetrical shape. The plans explain how to wind using visual references. I use my level instead of my eyes.

Spreading and winding the hull

Fillet and tape the interior joints (1 keel and 2 chines)

Fillets are thickened epoxy that is spread into the inside corners of the joints, to create a smooth concave surface for the fiberglass tape. To thicken epoxy, I first mix epoxy and hardener, then I add silica powder until the mixture resembles runny mayonnaise, then I add wood flour until the mixture is just a little softer than peanut butter. Silica and wood flour are available from System 3 .

Getting the thickened epoxy from the mixing pot, into the joints, is laborious unless you use something like pastry bags, ZipLoc bags or a caulk gun. I prefer ZipLoc freezer bags because they are cheap, disposable, no clean-up and the seams have never failed on me. I turn the ZipLoc part-way inside out, leaving a pocket in one corner of the bag. I pour the thickened epoxy mixture into the corner pocket, turn the bag inside-in, squeeze the air out, zip the bag shut, then use scissors to snip off about 1/4-inch of the bag corner. I then squeeze the thickened epoxy out of the cut corner of the bag, into the joints. 

When laying the thickened epoxy into the joints, I form a bead that is a bit smaller diameter than a pencil, for the length of the joint. Then, I round the thickened epoxy into a concave shape using rubber kitchen spatulas. Two or 3 spatulas of various radii (cut to shape with scissors) are needed to accommodate the variation in joints along the length of the boat. 

When done, wipe the uncured epoxy off of the spatulas nd throw the ZipLoc away.

Fiberglass tape is thin strip fiberglass ( 3 to 6 inches wide) on rolls. I use 6oz (weighs 6 ounces per square foot) fiberglass tape that is 3-inches wide. I place the fiberglass on the still-soft fillet, then saturate the fiberglass with un-thickened epoxy. I use a disposable paint brush to apply the epoxy to the tape. I prefer to place the tape while the fillet is un-cured and soft. This avoids the need for future sanding, it creates a strong chemical bond between the tape and fillet, and it permits hand shaping of the soft fillet under the tape. Unfortunately, this also requires a long session with epoxy.

Taping the keel

Completed taping of keel, stem, stern and chines

Coat the entire interior with epoxy

This seals the inside surface of the hull. This epoxy should be applied before the tape cures, to avoid the need for sanding when using blushing epoxies. Two coats are usual, and I apply the second coat as soon as the first coat is tack-free, to avoid sanding.

Before applying the second coat, I use a Stanley ShurForm to shave off rough edges of fiberglass, to smooth sharp spots and to remove goobers of epoxy. You will be unable to reach parts of this interior in the future. So, be sure to remove all sharp spots now, so that float bags and dry bags are not ripped or punctured.

Coated interior

What's up with sanding and avoiding sanding epoxy?

As blushing epoxy cures, wax forms on the surface as a result of chemical reaction. This wax will inhibit bonding with future epoxy. Fortunately, the wax forms late in the curing process. If you apply epoxy, then wait a long time (some say 72 hours) then the wax has formed. In this case, you must sand to remove the wax before applying more epoxy. Epoxy is very hard to sand. However, if you do not wait, and you apply the next layer of epoxy immediately (some say less than 72 hours, some say less then 24 hours, I say as soon as the first coat is tack-free), the wax does not form between epoxy layers. It only forms on the final layer that is exposed to air.

Before you sand, wash the cured-epoxy surface with warm water. The wax is water soluble and most will come off with water. You must still sand to remove the little bit of wax left in the surface. However, by washing first, you avoid gobs of wax clogging your sand paper.

Non-blushing epoxies are available that eliminate the need for sanding all together.

The Globs

The plans recommend that, after the deck is installed, you stand the boat on end and pour some epoxy into the hull so that if fills up the ends. This is done for both the bow and stern. The end pours provide strength to the hull and stern points and provide a solid area to install lift handles, loops and/or rudder.

I do my end pours slightly different. After fillet and taping the chines and keel, before the deck is installed, I install a dam, with scrap 4mm okoume. Then I pack behind the dam with thickened epoxy. This is a good place to put extra epoxy that is left over after other epoxy work.

These globs of epoxy will provide structural mass for the future bow and stern lifting loops.

Glob in the stem

Bulkheads

Bulkheads are walls within the hull. They add structural strength plus they create a water-tight barrier. Two bulkheads are installed to divide the kayak into 3 compartments.

The bulkheads are rough-cut from 6mm (¼-inch) marine plywood. They are then custom shaped to match the hull at the location specified in the plans. The tops are cut to the deck radius that is also specified in the plans. The bulkheads are glued in to the hull with epoxy fillets. To avoid sanding, I install my bulkheads as soon as the final interior hull coating is tack-free. As soon as the bulkhead fillets have strength, I coat the bulkheads and fillets with un-thickened epoxy.

Bulkhead

Deckbeams

Remember those deck beam strips that were cut during material preparation? Those are laminated together, in a curve, to create the deck beam. The 5 strips are "buttered" with epoxy, stacked on top of each other, wrapped in wax paper (so they do not get glued to the jig) and clamped on the radius jig.

After the epoxy cures, the beam is removed, cleaned and sanded to create the deck beam.

The deck beam is glued and screwed into the sheer clamps at the location specified on the plans.

Deck beam layers

Gluing jig

Completed deck beam

Deck beam installation

Shape (radius) the sheer clamps

When the sheer clamp was glued to the side panels, it was glued "proud", or higher than needed. Now it is time to shave it down to its final height and shape. The sheer clamp is shaved or sanded (I use a hand plane) to match the deck radius and create a gluing and nailing surface for deck installation. The sheer clamp should end flush with the top of the side panels and mate with the bulkheads and deck beam.

A radius guide, such as scrap plywood cut to the radius of the deck, provides guidance on where to shave, what angle to shave and how deep to shave. I usually take my time, play music loudly on the shop stereo and shave little bits at a time, frequently checking with the radius guide.

Shaping the sheer clamps

Foot Brace Nailer

To avoid penetrating the deck with future foot brace screws, I install nailers on the inside of the side panels, at the location where the foot brace rails are to be installed. A few layers of 4mm okoume, in 1½-inch x 17-inch strips, laminated in-place, create a solid section of wood. The adjustable foot brace rails can then be mounted from the inside with numerous wood screws, without unsightly penetration of the hull.

It helps to install the foot brace rails at this time, rather than after the deck is installed.

Foot brace nailer

Time to install the deck

Deck Installation

Mo 'Poxy's Chesapeake 17 Kayak Construction

Deck Installation

The deck is made from 4mm okoume. The wood is laid over the hull, marked and rough-cut larger than needed. The hatch and cockpit openings are marked and rough-cut smaller than final. It helps to carefully note the boat centerline, on the deck, so that the hatch and cockpit openings are centered in the final installation.

Before installing, the underside of the deck should receive two coats of epoxy. I avoid sanding between coats by applying the second coat as soon as the first coat is tack-free. The deck should be installed while the second coat of epoxy is un-cured, to ensure a good bond between the deck and the sheer clamps.

Thickened epoxy is spread on the sheer clamps and the first deck half is positioned on the boat. I use tie-down straps for force the deck to the curves of the bulkheads, deck beam and sheer clamps. Then, as the plans specify, I nail the deck to the sheer clamps with bronze ring nails. I space my ring nails very evenly and drive them very neatly since they will be exposed on my finished deck.

A butt-joint is formed where the 2 deck-halves meet at the cockpit and the second deck half is installed in the same manner as the first.

Deck lined up for installation

Deck lined up for installation

Butt joint at front bulkhead

Coaming

The coaming is the lip around the cockpit opening. The coaming is not just a spray lip. It is a structural component to strengthen the deck around the opening. But its biggest role is to support the paddler weight during entry and exit.

The coaming is constructed by laminating several layers of 4mm or 6mm okoume in-place. These pieces were cut when preparing materials. This step takes lots of clamps and lots of patience.

The cockpit opening will not be cut to its final shape until all coaming layers are installed. Then, the coaming and the deck are cut at the same time, for a perfect cockpit opening.

This is a good time to mask the deck to protect the deck from sanding and epoxy drips.

After cutting, I sand the coaming smooth all around.

I avoid leaving end-grain of plywood exposed because it tends to delaminate if exposed. I prefer to seal it with epoxy and cover it with fiberglass. Here I apply epoxy-saturated fiberglass to the coaming top and inside faces.

Since the coaming will be painted, I fill the weave of the fiberglass with silica-thickened epoxy.

Clamps on coaming

Clamps removed after epoxy has cured

Sanding coaming layers flush with each other

Glassing the coaming

Completed coaming

Install hatch trim

Although not specified in the plans, I install a piece of trim around the hatch opening. This trim strengthens the deck in the area of the hatch opening, provides a small amount of protection against deck wash and it is also somewhat attractive.

This is made from a piece of 4mm okoume that is cut to the same size as the hatch cover. The outside edges are rounded and sanded then the trim is glue-laminated to the deck.

The inside edge of the trim is cut smaller than final. After the epoxy has cured, the inside edge of the trim and the deck are cut to the final size.

Hatch trim clamped

Cutting hatch trim to final size

Completed hatch trim

Build hatch covers

The two hatch covers are constructed by cutting curved hatch cover beams, then gluing the beams, to the hatch covers, with thickened epoxy fillets.

This step, and several of the following steps, keep me busy between coaming steps.

Gluing hatch cover to beams

Hatch cover ready for coating

Rudder cable deck penetrations

If you install a rudder, you must drill a hole through the deck for the control cables to penetrate. I re-inforce the hole with these fancy oak cable guides.

Deck surface coating

After all of the miscellaneous wood pieces are installed, the deck can be epoxy coated. Note that the deck edge has not yet been trimmed flush with the side panels. I leave the deck edge overhang so that epoxy drips cannot run down the side panels.

After the last coat of epoxy cures, I trim the deck edges flush with the side panels. I used my hand plane to plane the deck edges very close to the panels. Then, I sanded the deck edges to be perfectly flush with the side panels.

This is a good time to epoxy coat both sides of the hatch covers. Two coats of epoxy is usually enough.

Epoxy-coated deck

Epoxy-coated hatch covers

Coating and Painting

Mo 'Poxy's Chesapeake 17 Kayak Construction

Coating and Painting

Removing the stitch wires

I turn the boat over, and, finally, after scraping my hands and arms 1000 times on these wires, I snip the wires off as close to the wood surface as possible and leave the rest of the wire embedded forever.

There are methods for pulling the wires. The plans recommend snipping the wires flush and leaving the remaining wire embedded.

Snipping the stitch wires

Sand the hull exterior

I sand with a random orbital (variable speed) 6-inch sander. I use the hook and loop pads with dust collection holes. When the sanding creates lots of dust, such as when sanding epoxy, I connect my shop vac to the sander and wear my respirator.

60-grit aluminum-oxide sand paper is tough-enough to sand the wire nubs flush with the wood surface.

I use the 60-grit to sand the keel and chines round, to flatten-out any humps (un-natural high spots) in the keel high and to smooth-out any rough spots. Then I switch to 120 grit sand paper and smooth the entire surface.

Sanding the hull exterior

Protect the deck

Before I get too carried away with hull coating, I masked the deck to protect it from subsequent hull epoxy, primers and paints.

Masking the deck

'glassing the bottom

Apply epoxy-saturated fiberglass to the hull exterior.

This fiberglass is the weight recommended by the plans. After vacuuming the wood to remove dust, I fill the few gaps and holes with thickened epoxy, drape the dry fiberglass over the hull, trim the fiberglass cloth as need and saturate it with unthickened epoxy.

I apply as little epoxy as possible (too much epoxy will float the fiberglass) using a foam roller and window squeegee.

After each coat of epoxy is tack-free (to avoid sanding) I apply another coat. I continue applying thin coats of epoxy until the weave of the fiberglass is filled and the surface is smooth. This continual epoxy coating requires a bit of planning to assure that I can be in the shop every 8 to 12 hours.

The fiberglass can be cut and wrapped so that it provides two layers of fiberglass at the bow and stern. I then add a few little scraps to create a third layer of fiberglass in these sensitive locations.

Fiberglass set in epoxy on hull exterior

Double layer of fiberglass at bow stem

Sand the hull exterior

As much as I hate sanding, it cannot be avoided at this stage.

I allow the hull epoxy to cure for quite a while (the longer the better). Three weeks is desirable. This allows complete curing and complete formation of the wax on the surface. But if I am in a hurry, 2 days is all I wait.

I wash the surface with warm water (to remove wax) then sand it with 120 grit, to a dull smooth surface.

This sanding is absolutely necessary for the upcoming primer and paint system to succeed

Sanded hull exterior

Prime the hull

I roll on two or three thick coats of a System 3 high-build primer. I do not worry about the primer finish quality since this primer will be sanded.

High-build primer is a thick layer that is easily sanded to create a very smooth surface for final coating.

I use System 3 primers and paints with System 3 epoxies. The result is chemical-compatible materials with great bonding, high durability and a beautiful finish. Not all paints/primers will properly cure over epoxy. Be Careful!

Applying primer

Please !! No more sanding !!!

This is another step where sanding is necessary for a quality finish. After the primer has cured, I sand with 120 grit, then 220 grit, for a perfectly smooth surface ready for final top coating.

At this point, a few pin holes often appear. These are little holes in the primer, and part-way in to the epoxy, that must be filled or they will show through on the final coat. They are filled by using a window squeegee to spread primer into the holes.

Sanding the primer

Paint the bottom.

This is a nerve-wracking step. The final coat is the climax of the boat construction.

I use an HVLP sprayer with high-quality System 3 linear-polyurethane marine paints. The paint thinning, shop temperature, shop humidity and sprayer performance must all be coordinated for success.

It takes more than one coat, sometimes 3 coats, for a quality finish.

Not all coats are successful. Occasionally an unacceptable finish (orange peel, speckle, etc) will require sanding between coats.

It is lots of work, but perseverance pays off. After perfecting the pickle-green paint, an additional layer of System 3 clear linear-polyurethane was applied for a super high-gloss automotive-quality finish.

Sure, the bottom will be scratched and dinged by beach launches and car-topping. But, I do not consider that a valid excuse for doing a poor paint job. My perfectionist side rules and I strive for a beautiful finish.

First coat of top coat

Sanding between layers

Final coat

Back to finish the deck

With the hull bottom complete, I right the boat and begin finishing the deck. The deck was epoxied previously, however, prior to hull coating, the deck was masked for protection. Prior to righting the boat, I install foam pads on my kayak stand to protect the bottom.

During the entire epoxy, priming and painting process for the hull bottom, I left the excess fiberglass. Now, I can carefully cut it near-flush with the deck. I use a 3-inch putty knife sharpened slightly by my belt sander. I cut the excess fiberglass to within 1/8 inch of the deck. Later, when sanding the deck, I will sand the fiberglass flush to the deck.

Removing extra hull side fiberglass

Sand the deck

I remove the masking, then I wash and sand the deck, as surface preparation for the top coat. I sand with 220 grit sand paper, to avoid scratches that will show through the final clear coats.

Surface preparation for clear coat

Mask the hull

I mask the hull to protect it from the upcoming deck coating. Although I will coat the deck with the same clear linear-polyurethane used on the hull, the hull must still be protected from overspray. Otherwise, the overspray will appear as speckle or orange peel, and ruin the high-gloss finish of the hull.

Paint the coaming

Aesthetically, I prefer a painted coaming to accent the natural wood deck. I mask the deck then prime the coaming. After the primer cures, I brush on a few coats of System 3 linear-polyurethane top coat.

Painted coaming

Top coat the deck

Rather than varnish, I finish the deck with clear linear-polyurethane. System 3 puts UV inhibitors in the clear LPU to protect underlying epoxy. Therefore, I tried LPU rather than varnish. The result is wonderful. The clear LPU has no color (varnish is somewhat golden), cures fast (tack free in 1 hour or so) and is less reactive to dust. The LPU is water-based for easy clean up. However, recoating must occur within 3 hours to avoid sanding between coats.

I sprayed the coaming also, to give it a high-gloss finish. Therefore, I had to spray the clear soon after painting the coaming black, to avoid sanding.

Once again, I used an HVLP sprayer. The paint thinning, shop temperature, shop humidity and sprayer performance must all be coordinated for success.

Deck coating complete

All done with painting and coating